Measuring from this center line and on the line 1” in from the front, mark at 1/2 the measurement #1 in both directions (in the example, we would use 18” from each side of the line. Then make another mark at 1” past that line (or 19” from the center line). But I can't find any information as to WHY one might do this. Can someone shed some light on the situation please? I'm trying to determine if this is necessary (or at least beneficial) for my situation. So I ask you my fellow wood stove users what do you think? As I'm not happy about this solution and I've already found fibers on top of the stove from the Inswool so I know its got to be in the air. NatWest, Royal Bank of Scotland (RBS) and Ulster Bank, which are all part of the NatWest Group, will now shut at least 172 of their bank branches in 2023 and 2024.

Repeat this step along the line representing measurement #2 (fireplace rear, in the example, 16” from front of sheet metal and then 14” and 15” on each side.)In either instance of a fireplace balloon or a glass door, you’ll have to measure your fireplace! The DIY Route The added benefit of doing all this will be that if you ever decided to use that fireplace for a wood burner, providing you choose a stove fit for the purpose of your fireplace and room, the chimney is set up ready for a flexible flue liner installation, which should inevitably save you some costs toward the installation. 2019-05-06T20:30:02+01:00 Connect all the marks so that your layout will look very much line the top inside of your fireplace with a 1” extra lip around it. You will need to paint the surface of the inside walls of the recess and one side of the cement board with a PVA mix (3 water to 1 PVA). This is very important as without this stage the bond between wall and board may not be good.

Lets face the manufactures fudge the BTUs and areas that a stove will heat. They know more stoves will sell if the cost of installation is less. Telling an potential owner the cost just went up Though of course, how much maintenance your setup requires depends on the type of fireplace you have.As this warm air rises, it needs to be replaced. So cold air is pulled in, usually from around doors and windows, creating the chilly draught that you can feel (and hear when it’s windy). This plate must be made of a solid, non-combustible material. These are often referred to as a closure or register plate but there is a difference between the two. But how do chimney balloons work? Chimney balloons are designed to inflate (usually by a plug-in wall outlet) and press against all four sides of your chimney so that it’s big enough to hold itself in place. A ventilation gap on the side of the balloon allows some airflow, which allows the chimney to “breathe” and not become so damp.

Fill deep holes in wall with spare mortar or use "bonding" (used before plastering to fill crevices and holes).

The point being, most manufactures s listings still show direct connect in exterior locations, as perfectluy acceptable because, when the manual was published in 2001, it was Before we go any further let’s first make sure we understand the difference between a closure plate and a register plate (both seal off the chimney from the room and are the ceiling above your recess). Hi everyone. There are a few threads on here about chimney balloons but I wanted some advice on an alternative.

B. You can bust through the metal somewhere within the hole with an old screwdriver or chisel, and then use aviation snips Lay out on piece of sheet metal – layout from center and leave enough room for a 1” extra flange around actual measurements. Mark the center of measurement #1 in the center of this line, so there is enough room on both sides for total plate plus 1” extra on all side. Note also extra inspection hatches also aid fitting and inspection (only possible on larger closure plates and no good if adding insulating beads, ( insulating a liner I do not advise as a rule). Before the closure plate design commences I usually connect my “adaptor” to the bottom of the chimney liner (adaptors can have differing lengths of nose and have two methods of attaching to the liner – bolts or self tappers). If using self tappers they will pass through the liner and both walls of the adaptor (choose a length so they only protrude a few mm into the inside surface of the adaptor). Better still buy our adaptor with captive wing nuts.In the image above the register plate is for a large fireplace recess. There is a hole in the middle for the flue pipe and two hatches either side for accessing above the plate to retrieve soot. In smaller fireplaces there may be little room for these hatches and this causes difficulty. It is usually the wisest choice to fit a chimney liner and avoid the need for a closure plate. Instead you can fit a more simple "closure plate" (see lower down in this article). A closure plate does not have to be metal and does not have to have access hatches. You should have something that looks like the picture above (without my colleague in the picture unless he has been moonlighting). The left, right and rear of the recess are lined with cement board and a dangling chimney liner is present. As I have suggested in the smooth-lining section you can, if you wish, fit the closure plate before the liner goes in, and even before the wall-lining (just adapt the instructions as required). The Roxul caused a smell as it first heated up, but this seems to be a one time occurrence. I’m pleased with the results of just the insulation, which slow down the heat loss. I’m thinking the metal plate will “air seal” the opening. inch Deluxe Terra-Cotta Top Plates, 7.5 inch Deluxe Terra-Cotta Top Plates, 7.5 inch Deluxe Terra-Cotta (1) You will likely chop some of the bottom end of the chimney liner off so you have a nice clean end to fit the adaptor to. The chimney liner slips easily into the top of the adaptor (between two surfaces) and the bolts tighten to secure it (or use the self tappers). The small gap between the top of the adaptor and the chimney liner – fill this with fire cement.