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Lonely Planet Italy (Travel Guide)

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Venice is impossible to ignore, hence the hordes of tourists who pile into this dreamlike city of romantic canals and ethereal fogs. In an average year, 25 million arrive to snap selfies beneath the Bridge of Sighs and glimpse heaven (in fresco form) in Basilica di San Marco. To curb future crowds, a tourist tax, turnstiles at city entrances, and advance reservations via an app to enter the city are all on the drawing board. A long-touted entry fee was due to be introduced for day-trippers in January 2023, but it's been postponed with no update yet on a definite date. From here, you could push directly on to Cortina d'Ampezzo, the chic resort that marks the end of the road, but for a more relaxed trip, stop for the night at the Dolomit B&B and take some scenic detours around La Villa on day two. Working out the best way to spend your time in the Italian capital is a cultural conundrum. Rome is the former caput mundi (capital of the world), the epicenter of the Roman Empire, the spiritual HQ of the Christian world and the repository for over two millennia of European art and architecture. The city exudes must-see sights from every pore.

After about 20km (12 miles), you'll arrive in Amalfi, the coast's main hub. Stop here to look around the landmark Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea and then head up to Ravello in the hills above. Pause for lunch here, perhaps at the Ristorante Pizzeria Vittoria, and enjoy heady panoramas from the town's lush gardens. If it's classic Italian scenery you're after, plan your trip around some of Italy's dramatic mountain railway journeys. Great accommodation options include ultra-stylish but authentic La Mala in Vernazza, charming beachfront Hotel La Spiaggia in Monterosso, cool and contemporary Hotel Marina Piccola in Manarola or the budget Ostello di Corniglia, one of only two hostels in the Cinque Terre. If you’re looking for somewhere special, La Torretta Lodge has extraordinary views, five-star service and lavishly decorated rooms. It’s no secret that some of Venice’s best art lies in its churches. But in a city which, as legend says, has a church for every day of the year, how do you know where to start? Buying a Chorus pass is the way forward. Eighteen of Venice’s loveliest churches belong to this group – each is €3 to enter, but a pass for all of them, valid for one year, is just €12.This island just across the water from Burano is where Venice began. The first island of the lagoon to be settled, and then a bustling early medieval boomtown, today Torcello is a haunting place of around a dozen inhabitants, and one big draw: the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, the vast church which dominated the north lagoon for centuries. Still visible from the airport, its interior sparkles with Byzantine-style mosaics from the 11th century. It’s pure magic.

Planning tip: Go hungry and savor the slow feast, one delicious mouthful at a time! 7. Follow the Via Francigena pilgrim trailComprehensive selection of maps throughout and beautiful full-colour photography to inspire you as you plan your unforgettable journey Renters must generally be 21 or over, with a credit card and home-country driving license or International Driving Permit. To drive a vehicle in Italy you must have insurance against personal and material damage. All car rental companies offer optional (but recommended) “kasko” coverage, a comprehensive insurance that covers all forms of damage, regardless of who caused it. How much does it cost to rent a scooter? There’s no better way to get a handle on the smoldering beauty of Sicily’s Aeolian Islands than by hoofing it up to Stromboli 's perfect pyramid of a volcano. Thrusting above the cobalt sea, it certainly has the wow factor. It's not every day, after all, that you get to trek up to a permanently active cone. In a word, no. When sightseeing go for comfort, especially when it comes to shoes – you’ll be walking a lot and cobbled streets can be murder on the feet. Note also that major religious sights often enforce dress codes, so make sure you can cover your shoulders, torso and thighs. For going out in the evening, smart casual is the way to go. What’s the score with tipping? Have you ever been some place and looked around you to wonder how you managed to curry such favor with the universe as to end up there? Get thee over to any of the beaches in the Riviera del Conero, easily reachable by bus from Ancona, and you’ll very likely experience the same sensation. From the wild beauty of Mezzavalle to the dulcet tones of Numana Alta, every bit of this protected area feels like you’ve done something very good in life, at least once. Stop for a meal of local moscioli (wild mussels) and it might even be twice. 17. Le Ginestre, Friuli

The easiest way to reach the Cinque Terre and to travel between the villages is by train. The closest airports are in Genoa and Pisa. Arriving in Cinque Terre by train The short answer is anytime. Spring and fall are best for sightseeing, touring, and seasonal food. It’s warm without being stifling and nature is in full color. But with the glorious blue-sky weather come crowds and high-season prices in the main cities. Yes, Cinque Terre really is as jaw-dropping as the photos you’ve seen. The five precariously perched fishing villages painted in ice-cream colors look as though they’ll topple off the cliffside with the merest puff of wind. Planning tip: Many visitors see the Scuola and forget about the nearby church of San Rocco, which has yet more Tintorettos inside. 10. View the Grand Canal from Ca’ d’Oro

The Grande Strada della Dolomiti provides some of Italy's most exhilarating driving. Running from Bolzano to Cortina d'Ampezzo, it boasts superb scenery as it snakes past craggy, saw-tooth peaks and over lofty mountain passes in the Dolomites. With that said, it’s good to know what to expect before arriving on sand: many beaches in Italy are dominated by stabilimento (beach clubs that will charge you a daily fee for entrance to their stretch of the sea and provide you with lounge chairs, bathrooms, and other facilities). The more popular the beach and the closer to August holidays you are, the more likely places are to be booked solid. If you’re looking for a deserted paradise to wile away the hours, look for it in September. But even if you’re among the legions, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

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