Ilford Ilfotec DD-X Black and White Film Developer 1 Litre

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is a "normal" ISO range for me at this time of year. It's often gloomy, and I walk in the woodland with "lighter" camera combos which usually means no more than f/2.8 to rely on.

Ilfotec DD-X is one of the very best film developers for pushing film. This developer is the perfect balance between solvent action (reducing the size of grains) and shadow enhancement.You can't replenish a diluted developer-- something that is both good and bad. This depends on the developer used as some replenish well (aka get "ripened) others gain no such benefit and some really just ought to be disposed of after development. If you’re the type of photographer who often pushes your film and likes having a liquid developer, DD-X is going to be one of the best developer choices. DD-X will not let you down, no matter what kind of lighting you throw at your negatives. In fact, the only developer on the market that pushes film better is Ilford’s Microphen, which is a niche developer that comes in powdered format rather than liquid. As you can see from the above DDX recipe, my cost per roll goes down with SSD. Now, I use 15 ml per roll or 25 ml per two rolls (or 12.5 ml per roll). I get 1,000ml / 25 = 80 rolls if I develop two at a time or 1,000 / 25 = 66 rolls if I develop one at a time compared to using 60ml per roll in normal development. This makes DDX quite affordable to use regularly.

HC110 – 6 ml + 494 ml water or 10 ml + 990 ml water – 30+30 with 10-second stir at the start and midpoint This isn't a scientific experiment because I was dumb. I put rolls of HP5 into my Olympus 35RCs and set the ISO to 800. I have 2 of these, so figured that would be a good idea. Stupidly though, I didn't think that the meters would be slightly diffferent, and the RF patch is harder to spot on one. So both focussing and metering weren't exact.It is more expensive on a roll-for-roll costing, but I've also found that it's cheaper to buy a bottle than the more economical developers. It's a false economy, but sometimes it works for the wallet that way. I really like DD-X and plan on continuing to use it, but I can't offer much in the way of reasoning as to why it's better than anything else given that it's all I've ever used since I began home-developing in the spring. I have used Rodinal (in the form of Adox Adonal) on one roll of Fomapan 100, and I wasn't unhappy with the results, but I still prefer the way DD-X works on the same film. For everything else DD-X has produced results I'm very happy with - just as nice as the lab results I've had in XTol - and it's handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb, including pushing HP5+ on and two stops (I also plan on shooting a roll at 3200asa at some point to see how that fares). Pyro - 5 ml + 995 ml water - 15+15 with 30 seconds stir or inversions at the start and the end of the first 15 minutes. If you are using 500 ml for developing only one roll of either 35mm or 120, you still need to use a minimum of 5 ml (not 2.5 ml) of 510 Pyro. I personally don’t ask for any apology. As far as I am concerned he , like anyone else , is welcome to interact with us here if he’s happy to do so in a pleasant manner….. that’s all that is asked of him.

Ilford Multigrade Fibre Based variable contrast papers. They provide a powerful creative tool. Having different levels of contrast in parts of the same print seems to create images with an extra dimension compared to single grade papers. Stop Bath The low solvent action and enhanced shadows make this especially useful for fast films like Ilford Delta 3200, where it will reduce the grains just enough to have a pleasing appearance without eating the grains and lowering the film’s speed. Dilution tends to allow the highlight development to exhaust in between agitations, an effect which will be enhanced by increasing the time in between agitations (what is known as "stand" and "semi-stand" development). Such increases in time can also lead to muddling of consistent tones in an image due to the buildup of byproducts from the development process (such as "bromides", etc.), and this problem is worse with some developers yet essentially non-existent with others. However, the dilution alone along with consistent 5 second agitations at one minute intervals will generally still tend to improve shadow detail and highlight separation because of the dilution of the developers.

Paper Developer

Ilford DDX for single roll – 15 ml + 485 ml water – 22+22 with 20-second stir at start and midpoint. Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Kodak TMax 100 @ ASA-100 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 7:00 @ 20C Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Kodak TMax 100 @ ASA-100 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 7:00 @ 20C Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Kodak TMax 100 @ ASA-100 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 7:00 @ 20C Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Kodak TMax 100 @ ASA-100 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 7:00 @ 20C Certainly, the developer is not hampering my capability as a photographer as I perhaps suspected. It must be something else Rolleiflex 2.8F – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Ilford Delta 400 @ ASA-200 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 6:00 @ 20C Rolleiflex 2.8F – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Ilford Delta 400 @ ASA-200 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 6:00 @ 20C Rolleiflex 2.8F – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Ilford Delta 400 @ ASA-200 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 6:00 @ 20C Rolleiflex 2.8F – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Ilford Delta 400 @ ASA-200 – Ilford Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 6:00 @ 20C